Weddings > Ideas & Advice > Suit and Tuxedo Guide

Suit and Tuxedo Guide

Style and fitting tips to make him gorgeous on the big day.

Suit or tuxedo? Bow tie or four-in-hand? Classic or cutting edge? Chances are your groom won't put quite as much time and effort into picking his wedding outfit as you'll put into selecting your gown, but he still has plenty of decisions to make. He'll want to look great, feel comfortable and match the overall style and formality of the wedding. Here's help.

"The traditional purpose of formal attire for men is to create a uniform yet elegant style of dress that allows the woman to stand out," says Donna Simonelli, spokesperson for formal-wear manufacturer Fabian Couture Group. The difference between formal and semi-formal, she notes, is "simply a slight relaxation of the rules." For example, the traditional formal daytime ceremony calls for a dark gray cutaway, an ascot, vest, and striped trousers. The semi-formal daytime version allows for a regular length gray or black stroller coat with a necktie, vest, and striped trousers. Or, she adds, "many men today opt for a dark tuxedo." A very formal evening ceremony, on the other hand, calls for white tie - a black tailcoat with white pique accessories - whereas a formal evening ceremony simply requires a black tuxedo. The semi-formal evening look is a black tuxedo or dinner jacket with either a black tie and cummerbund, or a vest and tie in a color or print that matches the bridesmaids' attire.

Flatter His Figure

Brides aren't the only ones who need to worry about figure flaws. Grooms can be knockouts, too, by choosing formal wear that enhances their body types.

Short, slender grooms should look for single-breasted jackets with long lines, a low-button stance (it elongates the body), and wide peak lapels. Other stylish options include wearing a double-breasted tuxedo jacket or a subtly patterned vest and tie. Selecting the right pant is key, too. Reverse double-pleated trousers are a good choice for grooms with short, slender frames. And the perfect pant leg should always break slightly on top of the shoe and angle a bit downward in back.

Short, stocky grooms with athletic or muscular body types look best in tuxedo jackets with slim shawl collars. The top button should fall at the small of the waist to give the torso a leaner look. Also, choose jackets with a natural shoulder line and avoid the more broad European styles. When it comes to pants, reverse double-pleated trousers with pleats extending toward the pockets tend to elongate the leg. Be sure to avoid too much of a break on the foot, or the pant let will look sloppy.

Tall, husky grooms with broad shoulders and muscular frames look best in shawl-collar tuxedos. Jacket length is especially important. To determine a good fit, the groom should place his arms at his sides and relax the hands. His fingertips should just touch the bottom of the jacket, and his shirt cuff should extend half an inch beyond the jacket sleeve. The construction of the jacket may need to be a bit loose to provide ease of movement. Also, grooms with thick necks and wide faces should avoid too narrow ties and wing-tip collars that look constrictive. Instead, opt for lay-down collars and fuller bow ties. And the pant legs should have a slightly wider silhouette to accommodate muscular thighs.

Tall, slim grooms look well in just about every tuxedo style. A double-breasted tuxedo with slightly broad shoulders and a suppressed waist is an especially good choice. Jacket buttons closed up high on the waistline look especially good, and a high shoulder line is better than a natural one. Garments should be full, while still following the lines of the body, and trousers should also have a higher rise with more of a break in the pant. This figure type can easily wear vests and ties in colors and patterns.